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133

Collections — Man / Accessories

Spring / Summer — 1987

Press Release

Prêt-à-porter Collection

“I want a competitive spirit, in the sense of a challenge… Competition as the regaining of certain forms nearer to the body, certain reinforcements at the sleeves, the typical sport supports in back or where the muscles come very much into play… Challenge in proposing again summer grey, white, bright banner colours. But always searching for nobility, a background of classicism which for me signifies tradition. Behind which, by this time, there is a wave-length, an evident metric of that which is pleasing in the collection: the tie with spots, or gaudy ones, or yarn-dyed Prince of Wales. A blue jacket – a maybe with extra body – a beige trench – maybe in waterproof silk poplin – chalk stripes, a gabardine suit. That which one cannot renounce, or which one does not want to forget, or which one needs…”

(from a conversation with Gianfranco Ferré on 1/7/86)

With new vigour. Sports jackets reduced to the essential, in poplin reinforced by the lining: also to be tucked into the trousers like a shirt. Classic trousers, their volumes with new dimensions. The “armoured” sleeve of the sportsman, with leather reinforcements.

With new comfort. Forms which are comfy because they are not too loose. Sleeves which are snug. Shoulders which are marked but reduced: even seven or eight centimeters less. Fabrics which are multiplied: leather on leather, cotton on cotton, double tricot, on one side silk and on the other napped cotton not twisted. Articles doubled in pre-washed Bemberg for linings.

With a new code. The double-breasted is marked by six buttons. The bermudas and long trousers are in white piqué. The shirts have their collars stiffened by bones which can be removed to give a more natural fold. The graphic tie: with patterns in matching styles, enlarged or reduced, on a silk which seems satin. The shoes have flexible soles with three layers of buffalo hide. Luxurious moccasins in crocodile.

With new freshness. A white cotton blazer for the evening, on top of shirts with front in the same fabric as the jacket. Tuxedo jacket in leather over a leather polo shirt. Jacket in silk poplin like the shirt and the trousers in cool wool.

With new colour. Combative greens and reds, inspired by an old photo album of the Olympic games. The greys, from lead to swallow. White. Crushed black shading.

Up-to-date survey of the Ferré tradition. The fabrics are airy, but this time obtained with mohair, or fibres that have undergone a special double or triple processing. Silk is mixed with wool or cool wool. Shantung and silk poplin. Tussah. An effect of cleanliness is obtained thanks to the calendering of linens, a process which gives a sort of shiny and soft “touch”.