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133

Collections — Woman / Accessories

Fall / Winter — 1995

Press Release

Prêt-à-porter Collection

“Concentration, concision… Amidst the babel of voices, whirl of signs, taking a precise, decisive step becomes requisite. Simplifying forms, satisfying a need primarily intellectual rather than aesthetic. Purifying images, while in no way diminishing the charm of the dream dimension…

This is why I sought to make a clear distinction between the two realms of dressing. For day clothes sharp and smooth, perfectly aware of the rules of efficiency; for evening creations artful and alluring, wonderfully open to the game of seduction… The garment must once again make the statement. I say, with all the risks this entails: the garment for what it is worth, for its quality and design, intrinsic necessity…”.

Gianfranco Ferré

EVERYDAY FORMULARY

In the most elementary and straightforward of colors, the strongest and purest, white, a series of garments in stretch or hyperhammered wool, felt, ultrateaseled mohair, allowing a pinpoint flaring of short coats and cabans. Notes of black, resembling photographic negatives, for underlining the depth of certain materials: leather, for example.

A new allure for the suit, now smaller of proportions thanks to the use of superstretch fabrics and to a fineness of cut. Natural shoulders, constructing close-fitting jackets. Double and triple crêpes, reversible, liningless; stretch tricots, tangle thick.

In a synthetic/authentic blend, the truly false fur becomes a caban, a coat, a shawl. Maybe black and bristly of effect, almost an arm of defense, but soft to the touch due to sophisticated textile technology.

The importance of vibrant, quasi-signal colors, for wool cabans quilted with white anatomical downs, for the various paddings following body lines.

Knits in pieces, inventive and imaginative. Glove-snug knits set on a body-hugging stretch tulle base. With flashes of bare skin and unforeseen transparencies. Norwegian-type tricots, alpine of style, held together and reinforced by narrow satin ribbons.

Masterly mixes, audacious effects: nylon in combo with faux fur, lapin reminiscent of chinchilla.

The coat of the season: the slender, skintight trench in rigorously mannish tones (dark blue, camel, black and white) or in opulently feminine fabrics (glossy double silk, iridescent double moiré).

Exquisitely light white organza shirts, featuring a voile sheerness and a sculpture fit. With finely ribbed arm-caressing sleeves and a tiny collar shaped by other ribbing.

Shoes sharp and smooth, even when the sole is para thick. Belts ultranarrow, mere strips accenting the figure.

EVENING DRESSING

While by day the silhouette stops at the knee or comes forth in pants, by night it experiences absolute freedom: a pullover-dress worn only with a pair of opaque hose; a dress long, another even longer.

The tuxedo, a sure uniform, gives rise to gros-grain dresses very low cut and cinched at the waist. With regulation satin borders.

Velvet and tulle tunics in a deep brown, almost black of hue, set off by sudden streaks of nudity.

A mysterious mineral alchemy, the brilliance of quartz and coal, irregular powder and scale embroideries on chenille and tulle for dresses or bustiers.

A rain shimmer and water sheen, for the long tubular-mohair dresses in low-key mannish tones: dark blue, green, brown.

The magic of metal wires capturing cascades of coral, and of sieves sparkling with silver dust, for glove-fitting tunics embroidered on the finest of netting.

Surprise dresses: slender in front, with a slightly flared high-waisted skirt and a velvet shirt. In back, huge tulle bows. White tulle, black tulle.